Under the Sun, Under the Eye Defense Filter

Color Cosmetics, Hair Care, Skin Care, Sun Care

Under the Sun, Under the Eye Defense Filter

By: Christine Esposito

Editor-in-Chief

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Deionized water
62.597

Dissolvine NA2-S (Coast Southwest, Akzo Nobel Functional Chemicals) (Disodium EDTA)
0.100

Glycerin 99.7% USP Kosher (Coast Southwest, Inc.)
3.000

X50 Pure White CC Powder (Coast Southwest, Inc and Infinitec Barcelona) (Glycolic acid (and) lactic acid (and) polyvinyl alcohol)
0.003

Phase B

Endimate 33V (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
4.000

Baobab Oil (Coast Southwest, ICSC International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Adansonia digitata seed oil)
1.000

Endicare TN (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)
1.200

Endicare OMC (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate)
3.500

Endicare OTX (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (Octocrylene)
2.000

Phase C

Endimulse 165V (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate)
4.000

Endimulse EGDS (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (Glycol distearate)
3.000

Cetyl Alcohol (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (Cetyl alcohol)
1.000

Phase D

Endicare AB (Coast Southwest, Inc.) (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)
3.000

Uvasorb MET (Coast Southwest, Inc., 3V Sigma-USA) (Benzophenone-3)
3.000

Phase E

Luxscreen TR14 AF 50 (Coast Southwest, Inc., The Innovation Company) (Titanium dioxide and hydrogenated polydecene (and) styrene/acrylates copolymer)
5.000

Luxscreen Zn40 AF 50 (Coast Southwest, Inc., The Innovation Company) (Zinc oxide (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) styrene/ acrylates copolymer)
2.000

Phase F

Sharomix 713 (Coast Southwest, Inc., Sharon-Laboratories, Ltd.) (Sodium benzoate (and) potassium sorbate (and) aqua)
0.800

Ultrapure Polymer 2055 (Coast Southwest, Inc.,Ultra Chemical, Inc.) (Polyvinyl acetate (and) aqua)
0.800

Procedure

Phase A—In main vessel, add phase A and begin propeller mixing at 200-300 rpm. Heat to 75-80°C. Phase B—In separate vessel, add phase B ingredients with propeller mixing and begin heating to 40-45°C. Phase C—At 40-45°C, add phase C ingredients to phase B and bring heat up to 65-70°C. Phase D—At 65-70°C, add phase D ingredient to phase BC. Note: Allot time for powders to dissolve; solution will become yellow. When both phases have reached 75-80°C, add phase BCD to phase A slowly under a homogenizer at 2,400 rpm while maintaining the temperature during emulsification. Homogenize for 1 minute. Once the solution is uniform, switch back to propeller mixing, discontinue heat and begin cooling to 30-35°C. Phase E—At 35°C, add phase E to phase ABCD. Increase speed as needed to mix the two phases together until fully uniform. Phase F—Add phase F to phase ABCDE with propeller mixing. Once uniform, transfer to a homogenizer and homogenize at 2,000 rpm and homogenize for <30 seconds. Once complete, transfer to a holding vessel.